BuckEye

Super cool

Yeah i think its oil on the inside, fine line of ox on the outside, hard to see though.

It's 21/32-11/16". The shear mark is in pic 2 going straight across, highlighted by the dark color

I bought a collection the other day and these bad CACs fakes were in there (I told the guy). This thread is for learning. Don't hijack it please. These are are single seam except for one which is the bottom right. You can see the torch marks in the close up pics. Look for fine bubbles at the poles, this is a dead give away especially the guinea, they streak under the surface. Now, that doesn't mean all marbles with internal bubbles are bad. The colors are wrong, while they look like cac colors, especially the yellows and orange, they are much too creamy, cac is more vibrant. Hope this helps. Craig A few might be torched cullet after looking...

Here is a Persian turquoise I found last week. The nine is outlined in a great different color or two colors. It runs deep and is dark. I have another one like this and I think it's the oils from the rollers perhaps. But, upon closer inspection there is a thin line of red ox on the surface. Is this the Persian oxblood which is only speculated to exist or just a really cool mfc? Thoughts? Craig

23/32"

I think the last list is from Bill Tow or Rios. It is just a list of the colors they used 1-22 examples of opaque colors, with 46-50 being ones he added later or forgot

Got it!! Thank you fine sir

Griff "The rumor that someone knows who made them, was put in my ear within the year the marbles had surfaced." Sissy: Ditto that comment for me. Ok then what is the "rumor"? It implies you know as if it was put in Your ear who it was....If it's just semantics say so, I didn't make up anything, it's a direct quote from you. Who is the "someone" that knows who made them? Let me know if I'm reading you wrong....

Thats two or more people who claim to know who made them. Let it be known, so we can end this discussion. That seams like a real easy answer. Spill the beans

Btw, there may be some confusion. The marble halves I posted are not mine, that was a pick from a thread several years ago I saved. I think Clyde actually took those if I'm not mistaken. I didn't get those from someone at ground zero at the dig where all the marbles were found.

I don't have any other facts or proof of anything. There is no other way to say it. I'm not holding back anything, that's all I know. Galen and I probably don't even know the same version of the story which has been circulated for years. We don't corroborate at night. We are not sitting under a cover with a flashlight telling stories lol. I'm not sure what you are looking for.....

So maybe 7 yrs ago? Sure, it was copy and pasted into a folder so I that was an estimate. There are 135 pics here http://marbleconnection.com/gallery/album/289-christensen-agates-cacs-by-marblealan-mostly/ She can start with that, I did.

Yes that long email was specifically on cac/Cambridge glass linkage. How it is applied to different cac types besides guineas is up to the reader I suppose. But I remember that email originally asking about Guineas

I'm not sure of their opinions on these marbles, that conversation was more as to guineas and Cambridge color in general. He was helping me out as a newby to learn colors first. I'm actually rereading the colors in Cambridge glass II now lol. Opinions change all the time. I wish if someone thinks they know who the artist is who made these would pm me if they don't want to leave it in the open as libel. That was probably 10 years ago so I might have the Dons mixed up....sorry poplar head

You have to get the book, learn the colors, it's easy to follow along with the above info. The hard part is seeing a large piece of Cambridge and imagining a thin stripe or a splotch of a specific color. I have a strong memory for these things so I have learned the colors. I then saved probably over 700 pics of cac ST. and SOs, grouped them, learned them and compared colors back to Cambridge. Like I said there aren't really any one offs. It's all there. You have to want to do the leg work. I have a large collection of cac cullet. Rare, weird stuff. I collect cac mainly and put lots of hours in. The answer isn't simple, it's a combo of these things, the glass, the shades. Think of all the crazy Akros that were dug. Experiments. That's how I look at these. Like I said some don't look right and the colors are off. 95% look good to me. I'm sure someone made a few to look like cac, but if you collect cacs you can spot the fakes. There are a few. Someone tried to capitalize and a story was woven etc etc. It's like if you collect handmades, can you spot a contemp? I hope so... Ps, I have seen the 1931 colors in cac after comparing....which leads me to believe that these were made at the very end of their marble production....maybe they were trying of new techniques and color combos. IMHO HG first, then swirls, then ST,SO....

This is from D. Rios (poplarhead) I believe. It was from a conversation we had long ago via email, I dont think he would mind and he stops by here. If there is an issue I will remove, but it is very insightful. "Christensen agate marbles led me to investigate cambridge glass which is an elegant glass in the glass hobby as opposed to depression glass. within cambridge glass i found the opaque and transparent glass used in christensen agate marbles. i recommend a book named Colors in Cambridge Glass by the National Cambridge Collector's group. there you will find the following opaque colors. dates when the color was first introduced are provided. Azurite 1922 - a light blue Ebony 1922 - black Primrose 1923 - a yellow with "considerable warmth and volume...medium depth and not the least extreme in brilliance" Helio 1923 - a lavendar color from the purple family Carrara 1923 - a brilliant, full bodied white opaque. it shows opalescence at the edges or thinner sections when held to the light. the least common of the opaque colors Jade 1924 - medium blue green opaque Ivory 1924 - a light cream custard white opaque Avocado 1927 thru 1928 only - a rich green opaque "that tends toward the yellow side of the green specturm" Crown Tuscan 1932 - a flesh color these are the opaque colors that were available to the Christensen Agate company in the form of cutlet. In fact by the time Christensen Agate started making marbles in Cambridge, they would have had access to opaque cutlet. There are a few more opaque colors that Cambridge introducted in the late 30s after the marble company went out of business and later after the war in the 50s when the glass factory reopened. you will see the opaque colors listed on guineas. i don't think Crown Tuscan 1932 was used. there were also some experimental opaque colors like orange and a lighter green that are mentioned in the book. a date is not give for these colors but we see them on guineas. i am not sure about opaque red. it is not mentioned in the Cambridge book at all. i think it might have been a blend on guineas. if you see a lot of opaque red on a guinea that should be a warning sign. also if the yellow on a guinea is dark and oily that should also be a warning sign. the primrose yellow was a soft lighter yellow. the electric yellow was bright and "electric" nows lets talk a bit about transparent colors Topaz 1923 - a yellow green often called vaseline. Mulberry 1923 - a medium to deep shade of amethyst considered dull compared to the later amethyst color Emerald 1923 - a light shade of green Amber 1924 - a deep brown tone Madeira 1929 advertised for one year - a light golden shade halfway between canary yellow and deep amber Cobalt Blue 1 1920s - a medium light blue Peach Blo 1925 - a soft pink with "warmth and sparkle" Cobalt Blue 2 1925 - 1926 - slightly darker than Cobalt Blue 1 tends to have a gathering effect shows florescence under black light Ritz Blue 1928 - 1930s - very similar to Cobalt Blue 2 but does not floresce under a black light Bluebell 1926 used for only a short time - a darker transparant blue with "considerable sparkle" Willow Blue 1928 - a sky blue Gold Krystol 1929 - light yellow with no amber tint Carmen 1931 - a rich full bodied red Amethyst 1931 - a burgundy or deep amethyst Royal Blue 1931 - a deep blue Forest Green 1931 - "a soft, cool, dark shade of green that tends toward yellow" Heatherbloom 1931 - 1935 - in natural light a pale orchid or lavendar, in florescent light light blue or gray There are others but they came after the Christensen Agate Company went out of business. Lets talk about the transparent colors used as a matrix for guineas. They used a clear glass. They used an amber glass that could have been Amber or Madeira. Their cobalt blue is dark. It might have been Royal Blue. All other Cambridge blues are much lighter even the ones they called Cobalt Blue. I really don't how much access Christensen Agate had to the Cambridge transparent colors introduced in 1931. These were new to Cambridge and i am sure by then the marbles were not selling and production was coming to a halt. You don't see Carmen, Amethyst, or Heatherbloom in their marbles. So I don't think the green and blue that you do see was either Royal Blue or Forest Green. I think they made their own dark cobalt blue and green. They were also making electric colors which i think is the height of their contribution to the marble world. These include electric colored slags and the opaque electric orange, yellow, and green used on striped opaques and striped transparents. Also one has to prize their peach slag which was made with Peach Blo and white opaque glass. The glass chemist, Fiedler, must have known the glass chemistry used in Czech glass. Thats how he knew how to do guineas and electric colors. When you think of Christensen Agate marbles you must wonder about their production consistency. Based on what we know of original packaging those marbles that could be produced with some consistency seem to be in the packages. I think there was a lot of experimentation. How many marbles were given away or tossed because they didn't meet production objectives? When you look at a box of Shamrock marbles you love the variation. I am not sure Christensen Agate wanted to fill a box with that much variation. Keep in mind kids of the day prized the lowly stone agate marble. Akro did so many things to reproduce the stone agate effect in their glass marbles. My advice to collectors is too learn the Cambridge colors. Buy one piece of Cambridge glass for each opaque and transparent color. When you look at Christensen Agate marbles look for those colors. Look for the electric colors. Look for cutlines. Books are great but seeing real Christensen Agate marbles with your eyes provides a lot of education. Whether undergound or in a jar somewhere they are out there. If you run into me say hello. OPAQUE COLORS #1 white, #2 black, #3 red,#4 dk. brown, #43 pink, #44 lt. brown, #5 tan, #6 orange, #7 peach salmon, #8 ruddy salmon, #9 true green, #10 lt. green, #11 lime green, #12 olive green, #13 yellow, #14 purple, #15 lavender, #16 grey, #17 blue, #18 baby blue #46 copper, 47 deep wine, 49 lt grey, 50 seafoam green ELECTRIC COLORS #19 el. yellow, #20 el. orange, #21 el. red, #22 el. green TRANSPARENT COLORS #23 clear, #24 red, #25 lt. amber, #26 dk. amber, #27 butterscotch, #28 peach, #29 apricot, #30 green that fluoreses, #32 lt. green, #33 aqua, #34 extremely lt.blue, #35 lt. blue, #36 cobalt blue, #37 dark blue, #38 maglight blue, #39 amethyst, #40 purple, #41 lavender, #42 yellow, #45 orange, 48 olive green, 51 turqouise" Enjoy. Craig

Mon, you and I are buddies. I know where you stand on these, we just might need to have a no holds barred knuckles down playoff and the winner can write the next chapter lol

Break out the facts and proof these are new. This is all the info I have. I show a few pics and it goes crickets......six pages of bickering and three pics shuts everyone up, laughable.I will add I have seen some of these "exotics" at shows that are blatantly bad or torched or whatever, they are few and far between and obvious to a CAC collector. Just like the three fake Cobras I have for study, they are high dollar items and faked by someone at sometime, doesn't mean they are all bad.

First pic all halves Look a red guinea half! why would you break that in half! These pictures dont explain anything, fakes fakes fakes This is as far as I go

Let me post an Interesting parallel. A couple years ago no one had heard of peltier citrus marbles. There was a huge cache was found by Steve Smith I think. Maybe like 500/1000 of them. They slowly started leaking out and people could obviously recognize them as pelt, especially the pelts "gurus". No one questioned them, but where did he find them all, maybe he made them in his basement. He could have not told anyone where he found that big cache and let them out one by one. Fact is that would have never worked because they are not as esthetically pleasing as CaCs. Yes, some citruses were found in the wild but so were some "exotics"....see Hansels pics. I collect marbles, rarely do I sell them my higher end ones so I don't care who thinks they are real or not. I like them. I have my reasons. Furthermore, these CACs were not one offs. If you really study pics of them and I have many several hundred saved pics of only CAC striped opaques and transparents there are definitely Types and they are very specific. See my post about the Three Sisters last month. Three "exotics". Three different locations. Two out of the wild.......I think one has furnace debris, out of round just like most other CaCs. Hey, no one buy pelt citruses or novas, they are tainted and not real. Do your own research and draw conclusions. I'll send you 700 pics of CaCs you can study and compare colors and then get back to me instead of drawing blind conclusions. I'll send you the color study done by I think Don Rios of Cambridge glass and cac colors. Everything matches up. Go over old posts. The info is there.

2

I heard the glass makers name was Fielder, how about you, lol. Galen, maybe me and you can just trade them back and forth every few months. What do you think?

I correspond weekly if not daily with the person who found them. I have no question to their validity. I've seen halves with dirt on them and chipped ones too, they were not all perfect. In fact the ones in the beginning were exactly that. I'm not going to explain again the whole story and yes, Mon, all of this came after I met with you at your house and we discussed them. I was not into them then. I'm all in now. We can have a beer someday and hash it out lol.

Update, I checked the sellers competed listings and could not find the box or the other Guineas he sold. I talked to my buddy on the phone. My friend DID buy two additional guineas from this seller, not the box. They came as described 9/16" mint blue based guineas.