Fire1981 Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 I think this is a good example showing how red ends up getting burned. I still don’t understand how or why the red ends up being burnt. Does it happen on the rollers or before it hits the rollers. Oxblood is a separate formula right. It’s not really Oxblood unless it was meant to be just that. Any ideas🔥 RAR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmoozer Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 I wouldn’t carry that in my pocket🤣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvrons Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 Oxblood color for marbles can be made from a special formula of raw ingredients. Oxblood color for marbles can be from oxblood colored cullet. Oxblood can be from two or more different colors or types of glass. I made excellent oxblood color by addition of a mixture of broken green aventurine plate glass and broken gold lutz. Oxblood is not always from raw ingredients. Glass colors will not burn while on a marble machine rolls. Marble machine rolls are not heated. The only heat in the machine rolls is from the hot marbles. The machine rolls will always be 50%-75% less temperature than any glass as it exits the furnace. Glass in the furnace can be 2200 or 1800F. Once the glass leaves the furnace outlet it starts dropping in temperature. four inches or a foot later entering the shear the temperature is probably 1500F. Exiting the shear is probably 1300-1200F. Glass globs or slugs go down the slides to the rollers and once it hits the machine rolls the glass temperature is probably 1000F. Once in the roll grove it starts rolling at about 900-800F. This above all happens for one marble in less than one second. Glass temperature at the end of the rolls maybe 500F or less. The marbles are red/orange color. Red hot glass. Over the next 24hours as the glass marbles cool then the colors begin to show. Heat glass ingredients or glass cullet colors red, blue, green oxblood etc. colors to 2500F or 500f and it is all red /orange. Some colors and some certain glass will heat faster or slower than others. Red is one of those hard to control colors. At Jabo, at Sammy's Hogues contemporary marbles, at Sammys machine made marbles, red color may end up red, shades of pink, burnt red going to brown, or never see any of red. I have added a full stick of $50.00 Kugler glass, one inch diameter, 12-14 inches long, into the crucible or front of the furnace. To add a red swirl on white marbles and never ever see one tiny spot of red color on any marble. Red color is bad at sucking totally inside the marbles and also at burning up completely. What you add is not always what you get at the end. Have two thousand pounds of 2000F glass in a furnace. Add to much cold color striping glass and that 2000F drops fast. If the natural gas is not increased at the correct rate, the temperature on the glass in the furnace drops. Increase the natural gas to fast and the glass temperature in the furnace goes to high. No different than cooking on a natural gas cook stove. You can burn any color and change the original look. The marbles do not change, size, color, style, type, pattern once they reach the marble machine. The marble machine is nothing but a frame work with sets of long grooved rolls which do nothing but round the hot glass glob into a marble and start the cooling process. There is no heat added to the marble machine rolls. That is as simple or the best I can describe glass temperature and glass colors for making machine made marbles. It can get complicated how much heat, when to heat up or lower heat, where to actually add heat. No heat, no marbles, wrong heat, wrong marbles. Every step of the process from start until cool is a balancing act. It gets off balance often. This is why it takes a operator present 24hours a day. "It is not really Oxblood unless it was meant to be just that." I don't understand that ?? Oxblood is a color, if it is oxblood color, it is oxblood. There are different shades of oxblood color. If you add different things and have no odea what you may get. It then ends up having nice oxblood. Is it not oxblood, planned or not ? Unless you were present how would you know 100% for sure, if it was planned oxblood or not ? Some oxblood is planned but also some may not be planned. Or the planned oxblood disappears or is brown or black. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akronmarbles Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 It was the "broken gold lutz" that turned into the oxblood. Large copper crystals in glass = "gold lutz", while smaller sized crystals = oxblood. I have made both colors from scratch and they exist on a continuum. Very small size grains produce opaque orange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvrons Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 I tried the gold lutz alone and most times we seen some but little oxblood. If I used the small center or heart of the gold lutz chunks, then we saw nice gold lutz. If I used the outer pieces of the gold lutz chunks with the broken green aventurine plate glass. We always saw nice oxblood. I knew the gold lutz was copper crystals. For some reason the green aventurine plate glass made the lesser quality gold lutz preform better ? I have no idea what all was in the green aventurine plate glass. I did this crushed gold lutz and green av plate glass combo at Jabo and at Sammy's Mountain marbles to make oxblood on the marbles. Good to know that the very small grains produce opaque orange. I remember us seeing orange more than once after the marbles cooled, and no one ever added any orange. The second and third Jabo Tribute runs had orange and we had never added any. But we playing heavy trying to get gold lutz to show on the marbles. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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