hdesousa

Yes! And it was sold with comic marbles as well!

He says it's made of Suede leather.

DB, Not my bag. I'll ask what it's made of. Can you post pics of your Peltier bags? This one is not like any Peltier bag I've seen. It's not mentioned in the "Peltier Documents" either. The "Large Peltheads" think it's good though.

Anyone seen this before? Any idea which box it belongs in?

"ole lady" - is that a term of endearment or is she getting saggy?

Why do you say post and not pre WW2?

Seller has 6775 feedback, 100% positive. Can't be all that risky. But prejudging is good for the rest of us. Some two years ago I won a *mint* (unpolished) Jenny Lind colored figure sulphide from this guy, for well under the money.

Came from a Morphy's auction several years ago, consigned by an antiques dealer from London, England. Had to outbid dealers who would have broken up the set. Regret not buying the inlaid board and glass dome that was sold separately from the marbles.

3 marbles to a box???

Think the Japanese marbles have more puckered pontils. Something like these?

Who made these? Anyone see the marbles for sale here?: http://www.cincinnativiews.net/images-3/Dow%20Drug%20Store%20interior.jpg

Leroy, It happens, even to the best http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/m/marktwain141773.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_premature_obituaries No biggie if you're not really dead.

Speaking of Harry F. Unley....."The Marble Man"

Comparing the No.1 marbles, per 100 Cardinal Reds $2.80 Onyx $1.50 Moonies $3.40 Flinties $6.50

Any idea why flinties were so much more than other marbles?

Isn't there a Rosenthal address of Sistersville, W.Va. on a Rosenthal bag or box?

Here's George's email: sourlisg1 (at) mail.com He's made up at least a 1/2 dozen different posters filled with information not easily obtained elsewhere. He's not into promoting his stuff, although he'd be very happy to sell as many as he can.

If we're talking rare and disregarding pretty, here are two of the rarest. The world's fair marble may be the only one known.

Genius: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vernier_scale#mediaviewer/File:Using_the_caliper_new_en.gif

Plastic calipers are accurate, and precise to 1/128 of an inch, when using the vernier scale. http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/ Can probably find them on line for less than a couple dollars, post paid. Best bang for your buck. In the description below, if you'd rather measure in inches instead of centimeters, use the top scale. Vernier Caliper Instructions on use The Vernier caliper is an extremely precise measuring instrument; the reading error is 1/20 mm = 0.05 mm. Close the jaws lightly on the object to be measured. If you are measuring something with a round cross section, make sure that the axis of the object is perpendicular to the caliper. This is necessary to ensure that you are measuring the full diameter and not merely a chord. Ignore the top scale, which is calibrated in inches. Use the bottom scale, which is in metric units. Notice that there is a fixed scale and a sliding scale. The boldface numbers on the fixed scale are centimeters. The tick marks on the fixed scale between the boldface numbers are millimeters. There are ten tick marks on the sliding scale. The left-most tick mark on the sliding scale will let you read from the fixed scale the number of whole millimeters that the jaws are opened. In the example above, the leftmost tick mark on the sliding scale is between 21 mm and 22 mm, so the number of whole millimeters is 21. Next we find the tenths of millimeters. Notice that the ten tick marks on the sliding scale are the same width as nine ticks marks on the fixed scale. This means that at most one of the tick marks on the sliding scale will align with a tick mark on the fixed scale; the others will miss. The number of the aligned tick mark on the sliding scale tells you the number of tenths of millimeters. In the example above, the 3rd tick mark on the sliding scale is in coincidence with the one above it, so the caliper reading is (21.30 ± 0.05) mm. If two adjacent tick marks on the sliding scale look equally aligned with their counterparts on the fixed scale, then the reading is half way between the two marks. In the example above, if the 3rd and 4th tick marks on the sliding scale looked to be equally aligned, then the reading would be (21.35 ± 0.05) mm. On those rare occasions when the reading just happens to be a "nice" number like 2 cm, don't forget to include the zero decimal places showing the precision of the measurement and the reading error. So not 2 cm, but rather (2.000 ± 0.005) cm or (20.00 ± 0.05) mm.

Sounds like Darla used an epoxy glue. "Shoe Goo", sold in hardware stores, has become my go-to glue, although not tried on marbles yet. I'd roughen the surface of the ball and stick the marble's damaged side down to give the glue something to grip onto.

Don't know what you consider 'ceramic'. Try comparing it to an unglazed clay marble. Not porcelain nor stoneware nor a glass marble. They may all be at the same temperature, but unglazed clay is a slightly poorer heat conductor and will not feel as cold to the back of your hand or face.